W ho'd have thought genteel West Dorset was once home to legions of terrifying giant lizards? It's hard to imagine T-Rex waddling down Lyme Regis High Street after one too many fruit scones. But such is the miasma of civilisation that it leaves us far removed from a savage past that was, relative to the age of the universe, a mere moment ago. What marks Dorset's Western coast out as truly outstanding on the world stage is its geology. This includes a complete sequence of rocks formed during the Jurassic period. For this reason the region was recently awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status – on a par with the Grand Canyon and the Great Barrier Reef. But such lofty concerns aside, you can become a have-a-go prehistorian on this tour. With hammer in hand follow in the footsteps of Dorset's fossil-hunting pioneer, Mary Anning. Find out how the county's ancient origins were discovered, what life was like that long ago, and even what a dinosaur's hide felt like.
1 LYME REGIS PHILPOT MUSEUM
Taking its name from the former mayor of the town who commissioned the museum to be built at the turn of the last century, this is a great place to find out about the area. It's not all about fossils, but there is a lot of information in this respect, all beautifully laid-out. Our favourite bits were the old-fashioned pull-out display cases, which give you the feeling
of being in an obscure section of an erudite
institution, such as the British Museum. And that isn't too far from the truth, as the Philpot has as much information as the amateur fossil hunter or geologist can handle in one dose. There are guided fossil walks organised from the museum, however, younger kids will probably want to get through this one quickly, unless they're particularly keen.
2 DINOSAURLAND, LYME REGIS
As the name suggests, this museum is very much geared towards the younger dinosaur devotee, with moodily lit displays in the Time Gallery tracing how these rampant reptiles developed across the ages. Downstairs there's a substantial collection of fossils from Lyme Regis, including an icthyosaur. It was the discovery of one of these aquatic giants by Mary Anning in 1811 that first drew wider attention to the town's geological importance. Everything is explained in a relevant way, with displays showing the relationship between dinosaurs and modern
animals, explanations why Lyme Regis is so
fertile for fossils and, usefully, where best to find them. The building is an old United Reformed Church, where Anning herself was baptised, and its old-fashioned feel really adds to the experience. Guided fossil hunting walks are also organised
by the museum.
3 CHARMOUTH HERITAGE COAST CENTRE
A great resource for fossil hunters, this centre was set up to encourage amateur palaeontologists to get the best results without damaging the environment or themselves. The emphasis is very much on education, with interactive computers, displays and a video microscope under which to examine your fossil finds. It's not just about Charmouth's Jurassic past either, as there's plenty to discover about modern marine life and the coastal countryside.
Knowledgeable wardens are on hand to answer your trickiest questions and give you advice on what to look out for. There's no charge to get in, though there is a small fee to go in to the Jurassic Theatre, where films on fossils and marine life are shown. Next door you'll find Charmouth Fossils (tel 01297 560020; website www.charmouthfossils.co.uk) where you can hire a fossil hammer for the day.
4 DINOSAUR MUSEUM, DORCHESTER
Although it's not in such a fossil-friendly location as Dinosaurland, this museum goes even further to make the already-fascinating world of these mighty creatures all the more accessible to the very young. Upstairs, Dinosaur Discovery is the real highlight. Here you can feel a fossil or find out what it was like to walk like a dinosaur, thanks to what looks like a StairMaster machine taken from the local gym. There are life-size models dotted about the place, the best of which is the glaring triceratops. If you want more serious geological information, head to the nearby Dorset County Museum, details of which are
included in the following tour.
5 LULWORTH FOSSIL FOREST, NR. LULWORTH HERITAGE CENTRE, LULWORTH COVE
Towards the end of the Jurassic period the shallow, salty inland sea known as the Tethys Ocean – which covered what is now coastal Dorset – began to recede. A forest quickly sprang up, only to be
covered over by the sea again. The trees soon became covered in algae, which in turn attracted the mud that later formed limestone. The results of this roundabout recipe are the doughnut-shaped craters (or burrs) and limestone-covered logs where the trees once stood. To visit this fascinating forest you'll need to take a short walk from the Heritage Centre, depending on whether the Army firing range is open (check with the centre for details). At the centre
itself, you will get the lowdown on Lulworth's many other fascinating geological features, such as the Stair Hole, the Durdle Door and the Cove itself. And it's free to get in.
6 THE SQUARE AND COMPASS, WORTH MATRAVERS
This delightfully rustic pub also houses a
worthwhile exhibition of local fossils. It's been run
by the same family for nearly 100 years and little, it would seem, has changed during that time. Old-style
serving hatches take the place of a bar and there's
a flagstone floor and wood-burning fireplace. The collection has been mostly compiled by the current landlord and his father, which goes to show that amateurs have just as good a chance as the
professionals of making a good find. Should you find yourself with a spare hour or two, you may wish to contemplate the merits of the fine view over a pint or two of Ringwood Best bitter.
7 DURLSTON COUNTRY PARK, SWANAGE
It's amazing how much we can tell about the Jurassic period from what's left behind. Around Swanage, fossilised dinosaur footprints are often unearthed while quarrying is taking place for the Purbeck stone which gives villages such as Worth Matravers its
distinctive look. At this delightful country park you can find one such footprint, as well as information about the local area's geology. More displays are in the pipeline, but at the moment there's not many
fossils. Still, it's a great place to enjoy the modern coastline. Entry is free, with a charge for parking. Dedicated fossil hunters can find more footprints at Worbarrow Bay, near Lulworth, or at Portland. But you'll need to know what you're looking for.
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Distance 113 miles
Time All day
Start/finish Highlands End Farm Touring Park, near Bridport
Suitable for all the family
Tourist information
Lyme Regis Tourist Information
Tel 01297 442138
Website CLICK HERE
Refreshments
Lyme Fish Bar, Coombe Street
Tel 01297 442375
Attractions
Lyme Regis Philpot Museum
Tel 01297 443370
Website CLICK HERE
Dinosaurland Lyme Regis
Tel 01297 443370
Website CLICK HERE
Charmouth Heritage
Coast Centre
Tel 01297 560772
Website CLICK HERE
Dinosaur Museum Dorchester
Tel 01305 269880
Website CLICK HERE
Lulworth Heritage Centre, Lulworth Cove
Tel 01929 400587
Website CLICK HERE
The Square and Compass, Worth Matravers
Tel 01929 439229
Durlston Country Park
Tel 01929 424443
Website CLICK HERE
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