By English standards, the towns and villages of the Llyn are on the small side. But most will have at least one pub, a church and a shop. You'll find more at larger settlements such as Pwllheli and Cricieth, although neither constitutes a sprawling metropolis. But that's all part of the charm.
All the places in this section are on or near the coast – the peninsula is only eight miles across at its widest point so you're never far from the sea. Most are thriving communities, though one ceased to be so 2000 years ago, and another died and was then resurrected. Confused? Read on to find out more…

1 Tre'r Ceiri
Starting from Llanaelhaearn, turn onto the B4417 towards Llithfaen. Continue along the road for a mile, and park up on the right where a lay-by provides space for two or three cars. A sign points towards a footpath, winding up the mountainside. It takes about an hour, but the climb is well worth it.
At the top, a huge wall encompasses the summit, filled with the remains of 150 circular huts. This is Tre'r Ceiri, known locally as the 'Town of the Giants', one of the most impressive Iron Age hill forts in Britain. From here you can take in breathtaking views of Snowdonia to the east and the sea to the west.

2 Nant Gwrtheyrn
Drive to Llithfaen, and turn right in the centre of the village. Ignore the signs marked 'Private' – they don't refer to the road. After a mile, the road drops down a 1-in-5 hill to Nant Gwrtheyrn.
Set up in 1982 on the site of an old quarry village, the centre's main purpose is to offer residential Welsh language courses. It also welcomes visitors, so you can wander along the three-mile nature trail among the renovated quarrymens' cottages, or take a swim in the sea off the pristine beach. When you're done, refreshments are available at Caffi Meinir.

3 Nefyn and Morfa Nefyn
Nefyn is a pleasant little town, and you can learn about its herring-fishing past at the maritime museum in St Mary's church. But its great glory is the safe, sandy beach. There is also an exhilarating walk along the cliff top although, following a major landslip, parts have been cordoned off.
To the west lies the village of Morfa Nefyn, which boasts an even prettier beach. Follow the path across the golf course or walk west across the beach to reach the Ty Coch Inn – cars aren't allowed. The magnificent Nefyn Golf Course is worth a visit – some of the fairways are hemmed in with cliffs on both sides, so bring plenty of spare golf balls.

4 Aberdaron
Aberdaron is the Llyn's version of Lands End – the next settlement to the west is in Ireland. Here you will find a pretty huddle of limewashed cottages clustered around a single-arched bridge, a couple of pubs and cafés, and a shop. This was the departure point for pilgrims heading for Bardsey Island, a couple of miles off the tip of the Llyn, and reputedly the last resting place of 20,000 saints. The Bardsey Island Trust (tel 01766 810663) runs boats to the island from Pwllheli, although they are dependent on good weather. The journey costs £20 return and is worth the effort if you are interested in seeing the dozens of seabirds that make their nests there, or the ruins of the 13th-century abbey. Also worth a visit is St Hywyn's Church, perched on top of the cliffs, where Welsh nationalist poet RS Thomas was once vicar. It has an eerie churchyard filled with the graves of drowned sailors.
Finally, no visit to Aberdaron would be complete without a trip to the 'whistling sands' at Porth Oer, two miles to the north. The white sands of this beautiful beach are said to whistle when you tread on them, although to the untrained ear it's more of a squeak than a whistle.

5 Pwllheli
With bus and rail stations, supermarkets, eight pubs, a huge Wednesday market and the area's only cinema, Pwllheli is undoubtedly the capital of the Llyn: not bad for a town of only 4000 people. The town features a flourishing marina, an enormous harbour, an 18-hole golf course and even a fun-fair. This is one of the most Welsh-speaking towns in Wales, and the Welsh Nationalist Party, now known as Plaid Cymru, was set up here in 1925.

6 Cricieth
The first thing you notice about Cricieth is the castle sitting on the rounded hill that separates the two excellent beaches. Built in 1230 by Welsh prince Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, it was completed by the English Edward I in 1283. In 1404 it was seized by Welsh rebel Owain Glyndwr, who razed it to the ground, leaving only the ruins we see today. Try approaching Cricieth from Porthmadog at sunset – the view is stunning. The castle is well worth a visit for the views, and for the excellent displays in the building that houses the ticket office.
Cricieth is packed with pubs, shops and cafés but, most importantly, it is also the home of the original Cadwalader's Ice Cream parlour. Justly famed throughout the country, this is the home of some of the most delicious ice cream you will ever taste.

7 Porthmadog
Porthmadog is a transport buff's dream, with its two narrow-gauge railways, motor and maritime museums, and harbour. Engineer William Maddocks constructed the Cob – the embankment carrying road and railway across the estuary of the Glaslyn and Dwyryd Rivers. He also built Tremadog, a model town still much visited by planners.
Try fishing off the harbour wharf, or look out for Cob Records, one of the biggest dealers in new and second-hand music (vinyl, cassette and CD) in Europe.