| Scots Bard |
| Taxman, farm hand, poet and lyricist… trace the life and times of Robert Burns, Scotland’s favourite son and most famous literary character |
Robert Burns has strong ties with Ayrshire, and Alloway in particular: the place of his birth
in 1759. He resided in Dumfries from 1791 until his death in 1796. The great Scottish poet is now commemorated throughout the world on Burns’ Day, 25 January.
As you might expect of a national poet, there is plenty around this area of Scotland to do and see in connection with his life and works. Here, we’ve concentrated on just
a few of the landmarks of his life, beginning in Dumfries.
1. GLOBE INN
Park at Whitesands riverside in Dumfries, (you’ll need a parking disk, available from the tourist information centre or most newsagents). Cross the road and head up Bank Street (where Burns lived for a while in a small flat). Turn right and walk down the High Street, past Queensberry Street, and then turn into an alleyway on your left at a sign for the Globe Inn.
Here, in this 17th century inn, Robert Burns left his mark. Not only does his favourite seat still survive in his favourite howff (‘haunt’, in auld Scottish), two poetic inscriptions remain visible to this day, scratched onto the
windowpanes in his bedroom. It’s also thought that the first of what is now known as a ‘Burns’ Supper’ was held here at the Globe, back in 1819. Happily, the inn is still a working pub today.
2. BURNS' HOUSE
Leave the pub and go back to the High Street. Turn left, walk to its end with Shakespeare Street. Here, turn left, then next right into Burns Street. Walk around the S-bend. On your left is the red sandstone building which was Burns’ home (entrance is free). Burns moved here in 1793, when the street was called Mill Street. By this time, he had made a decent living, not from his works, which didn’t bring great financial returns, but from his reputation as an exciseman. The house has two bedrooms, (one is pictured, right) a kitchen, small study and a parlour.
The poet’s time here was happy, and among the songs written here were the famous My Luve Is Like a Red Red Rose, A Man’s a Man for A’ That and Scots Wha Hae.
Jean Armour, his wife, described Burns’ habits during his life in Dumfries: Burns was not an early riser excepting when he had anything particular to do in the way of his
profession. Even tho’ he had dined out, he never lay after nine o’clock. The family breakfasted at nine. If he lay long in bed awake he was always reading. At all meals he had a book beside him on the table. He worked in the forenoon and was seldom engaged professionally in the evening. He was fond of plain things and hated tarts, pies and puddings. When at home in the evening he employed his time
in writing and reading while the
children played around him – their prattle never distracted him.
3. BURNS' MAUSOLEUM AND ST MICHAEL'S KIRK
Turn left out of Burns’ House. Walk to the end of Burns Street towards the imposing, red sandstone steeple of St Michael’s Kirk. Walk up the steps, around the front of the kirk and turn left. Here lies Burns’ Mausoleum.
This mausoleum was built in 1815, 19 years after Burns’ death. He was disinterred from his original grave, a few yards to the left of the Grecian mausoleum. He is now buried here with his widow and five members of his family.
The mausoleum was constructed after an appeal begun by his old friend, John Syme, who felt Burns’ grave was too ordinary for such
a great man – William Wordsworth visited his grave in 1803 but had difficulty finding it – and so in 1813 Syme wrote to Dumfries’ most important citizens, who raised funds for the mausoleum.
4. ROBERT BURNS CENTRE
Leave the kirkyard, turn left down St Michael’s Bridge Road, and walk to the riverside. Don’t cross the bridge; instead, turn right and walk across the attractive suspension bridge nearby. On the other side, turn right and walk along the river until you come to the Robert Burns Centre. Admission is free (but it is closed on Sundays and Mondays).
The Burns Centre, inside the town’s 18th century watermill, is the best introduction to his life in Dumfriesshire. Here, you’ll find examples of original manuscripts, and a magnificent scale model of Dumfries in Burns’ time. There’s a children’s museum trail, too.
5. LINCLUDEN ABBEY
Leave the centre and turn right into Mill Road. Turn right at its end, then right again onto Devorgilla Bridge and return to your motorhome. Zero your trip meter and turn left out of the long-stay car park. At the lights at the bridge on Buccleugh Street (0.2 miles), cross the bridge. Turn right onto the A76 Glasgow Road, and continue over four roundabouts, always following the A76. At 1.6 miles, turn right into Jock’s Loaning (towards Lincluden Collegiate Church), and follow the road to its junction with Abbey Lane at 2.3 miles. Turn left and park. Walk down the lane to Lincluden Abbey.
This was one of Burns’ favourite locations. It’s not hard to see why: the ruined Abbey nestles on the banks of the River Nith, below an ancient motte (the mound that
once formed the side of a castle), testament to the ancient tribes who settled here four millennia ago.
Lincluden was almost certainly designed by French stonemason Jean Morow, whose work can also been seen in the abbeys of Melrose and Paisley. It holds some of the finest carvings of 15th century Scotland. For Burns, it inspired one of his most famous songs, Ca’ the Yowes to the Knowes.
6. ELLISLAND FARM
At the end of Abbey Lane, zero your trip meter. Return to the A76 and turn right. Continue for 4.8 miles, then turn right into Ellisland Farm.
The farm was Burns’ family home until 1791. He was just 29 at the time, although his health was already poor: a result of work as a ploughman before he became an exciseman. It was not an unhappy time: two children, Frances Wallace and William Nicol, were born here and it offered him inspiration. He once called Ellisland ‘the poet’s choice’, out of all the farms he was offered by landlord Patrick Miller. Not far from Lincluden, and the banks of the Nith, Burns wrote some of his finest works including Auld Lang Syne, Sweet Afton and Tam O’Shanter.
Today, you can see his spence
(writing parlour) with his travelling case, fishing rod and flute, and the impressive kitchen. There’s also a full description of farm life in Burns’ time, and a riverside walk to The Hermitage, where Burns scratched more writings – again on a window!
• Return to your motorhome and make your way back to Whitesands or your campsite. |
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Distance Some walking (1.5 miles) plus 7.1 miles driving
Time 4-5 hours
Start Whitesands, Dumfries
Finish Ellisland Farm
Suitable for all the family
Refreshments
Queensberry Hotel, Queensberry Rd, Dumfries
Tel 01387 253526
Information
Dumfries Tourist Information
Tel 01387 245550
Attractions
The Globe Inn,
56 High Street,
Dumfries
Tel 01387 252335
Burns House
Tel 01387 255297
Robert Burns Centre
Tel 01387 264808
Ellisland Farm
Tel 01387 740426
TIP
Be wary of the flagstones at Lincluden Abbey if it has been raining or snowing, as they can be treacherous when wet.
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