HOLIDAYS  BUYING  HELPLINE Great trails - Orkney Urban island They may be modest in size, but Orkney's towns of Kirkwall and Stromness are as cultured as their mainland cousins It's not often that people look to island cultures for urban sophistication, yet Orkney's two main settlements of Stromness and Kirkwall have a depth that belies their size. They are also great places to relax and enjoy culture, cafés and a fine cathedral. 1. WHAT A SAGA Zero your motorhome's trip meter at the exit to Point of Ness Caravan Site. Turn left onto Guardhouse Park, and at 0.6 miles turn right at the mini-roundabout, down Back Road. At 1.1 miles turn left at the T-junction onto the A965, then right to Orphir on the A964 (at 4 miles). Bear sharply left at 8.9 miles (facing Houghton ferry terminal) then turn right (at 9.9 miles) down an unclassified road signposted Orkneyinga Saga Centre. Turn right into the car park at 10.4 miles. The tradition of sagas - embellished but realistic accounts of the deeds of Norse nobles across the ages - helped the Vikings remember their history. The displays in this small centre explain the form succinctly, and there's an excellent short film to watch, too. There's a Viking chapel in the grounds which is our starting point for a short, circular coastal walk. KIRKWALL'S MANY FACES Back in the driver's seat, turn right out of the car park and continue down the unclassified road. At 11.7 miles turn right at the T-junction onto the A964 to Kirkwall. At 19.5 miles turn left at the T-junction into Junction Road and right into the car park. Here are a handful of historic sites, each within a stone's throw of each other. There are also good shopping opportunities to be had in Kirkwall - whether for gifts, food or clothes - and an excellent choice of places at which to lunch. 2. ORKNEY HISTORY Walk out of the car park and turn left onto Victoria Street, past Tankerness Lane, as it feeds into Broad Street. The entrance to the Orkney Museum is on Broad Street, just past the corner. All of Orkney's history, from ancient to modern, is covered here. There's a lot of it, too, with many fine artefacts beautifully laid out in light, airy surroundings. If it's a fine day, enjoy the gardens; otherwise you can burrow into the archives downstairs where there is an extensive photographic library. Admission to the Museum is free. 3. PALACE PARTNERS Head out of the Museum, across Broad Street and down Palace Road to the right of the Cathedral. The Bishop's and Earl's Palaces are on the right, either side of Watergate. The Earl's Palace is one of the finest examples of French Renaissance architecture in all of Scotland. The 12th-century Bishop's palace is not as grand as the Earl's but is nonetheless impressive. Admission is £2 for adults and 75p for children. 4. A PLACE FOR REFLECTION Head back down Palace Road and turn right into Broad Street where the entrance to St Magnus Cathedral is just on your right. This is easily the most impressive building on Orkney, an enormous space whose high, vaulted ceiling creates a feeling of humility and peace in visitors. If you fancy finding out more about it, walk about 100 yards back up the left-hand side of Palace Road to the St Magnus Centre where you can watch a video about the Cathedral and enjoy a nice hot cuppa. 5. BRUSH UP YOUR ORKNOLOGY Walk right onto Broad Street, past the tourist office and some shops, and the road becomes Albert Street. Turn right up Laing Street and the public library is on your left. Rarely will you find the chance to learn so much about the history of such a small geographic area. An an entire 'Orkney Room' is dedicated to the history of the Isles. 6. STROMNESS STROLL Return to the car park. Back at the wheel, turn right onto Junction Road. At 19.7 miles turn left at the mini-roundabout onto Pickaquoy Road, and at 20.3 miles left again at the junction to Stromness (A965). Back at Point of Ness Caravan Park, leave the motorhome behind and set out on foot for a tour of nearby Stromness. You can't beat the cobbled, streets of Stromness for character, and this harbourside town is a wonderful base for a stay on Orkney; though its lacks Kirkwall's range of shops and eateries, its charm is evident. From the campsite, walk along the harbourside down Ness Road which eventually becomes the main street, John Street. After 400 yards, the road turns into a small courtyard before bearing left. Opposite is Stromness Museum. As you might expect, given the location, this building is packed with maritime history. There are also extensive displays of the wildlife and geology of the locality, from birds and butterflies to fossils and sea shells. 7. ARTY TIME Continue down the main street for almost half a mile. On your right is the Pier Arts Centre, a neat gallery with contemporary exhibitors but mainly a 20th-century content. Among the more significant works on display are those by the likes of Ben Nicholson and Barbara Hepworth, both part of the 1920s St Ives movement at the opposite end of the country. Children have their own workroom in which to get creative, while adults can enjoy the Centre's peaceful, uncluttered ambience. 8. DRINK UP AND WANDER OFF Continue walking down the main street and past the ferry terminal. The Stromness Hotel is on your left. Head for the Flattie Bar. History and culture can be thirsty work, so take the weight off your feet and enjoy some of the Orkney Brewery's award-winning ales on tap. If you're visiting in midsummer, the sun definitely won't be past the yard arm - even if it's nearly closing time. Suitably refreshed, enjoy a wander through the wonderfully quaint streets and alleyways on your way back to the campsite. Return down the main street towards Point of Ness Caravan Park. There are numerous points of interest along the way - too many to list here but tourist maps are available from the Tourist Information Centre by the harbour. Try to find time to venture up a couple of side alleyways - we recommend looping around points 9 and 10 on our map for fairly typical examples, the latter affording good views of the harbour. HOME PAGE | TOP OF PAGE GREAT TRAILS   Out on the town  A foot in the past  Regency ramble  Urban island  BACK TO ARCHIVE PLANNING  PLANNING Distance Driving: up to 41.8 miles (both routes). Cycling: 19 (Route 1), 7.3 (Route 2) or 26.3 miles (both). Time All day. Start/finish Clitheroe C&CC site. Suitable for moderately fit and competent cyclists. REFRESHMENT Pendle Heritage Centre, Barrowford Tel 01282 661701 The Bay Horse Inn, Roughlee Tel 01282 613683 Ye Old Sparrow Hawk Inn, Wheatley Lane Tel 01282 440950 Foulridge Tea Room and Restaurant, Foulridge Wharf Tel 01282 869159 The Anchor Inn, Slaterforth Tel 01282 813186 ATTRACTIONS Pendle Heritage Centre Tel 01282 661701 Foulridge Canal Cruises Tel 01282 870241 HOLIDAYS  BUYING  HELPLINE Contact Practical Motorhome Best viewed in screen resolution 800 x 600 using I.E.4 or Netscape 4 or later.