| Great Escapes: Scottish Borders Tour 1 |
Walter Scott is one of Scotland's greatest literary figures. Here, we trace his life in the Borders region.
On 5 August, 1771 Sir Walter Scott, one of Scotland’s greatest writers, was born in Edinburgh. This boy was to grow into one
of the best-loved and most
respected of all that country’s
writers, and it was the picturesque Scottish Borders which helped
give shape to his particular brand of romantic writing.
As a boy, he was sent to his grandfather’s farm to recuperate from polio, which had left him lame. Here, though, he befriended a shepherd and was later
influenced by his ballads and
stories. And this heralded the beginnings of his love for his ancestors’ folklore and for the Scottish Borders region.
Here, we take you to the places which inspired Scott’s work throughout his lifetime.
1 TAPESTRIES IN THE TOWER
Perched atop a spectacularly
craggy outcrop, the 16th-century Smailholm tower at Kelso boasts stunning views of the surrounding scenery. Close to his grandfather’s farm, Sandyknowe, where Scott lived to the age of eight, the tower houses a collection of figures from his work The Minstrelry of the Scottish Borders, in addition to Scott-related tapestries.
2 SCHOOL DAYS
After Scott left Edinburgh High School, he went to live at his uncle’s house, now named ‘Waverley Lodge’, at Rosebank in Kelso. Here, he attended Kelso High School.
3 SELKIRK COUNTY SHERIFF
Having served an apprenticeship at his father’s law firm, Scott served as Selkirk county sheriff based at Selkirk’s town hall, from 1799 until his death in 1832. The court room has now been refurbished and uses an audio-visual display to relate Scott’s time in office. Outside the court, in the marketplace, stands an impressive statue of the man.
4 ABBOTSFORD HOUSE & ROB ROY'S SWORD
In 1811, Scott became a Tweedside Laird after paying Dr Robert Douglas, the parish minister of Galashiels, 4000 guineas for the title. And here, near Selkirk, on his land, sat an old farm called Cartley Hole where Scott began writing his series the Waverley novels (in 1814). Based on the success of this series, Scott demolished the farm and built Abbotsford House in its place.
It was during this period also
that Scott became Governor of Edinburgh Castle, and (in 1818) discovered the ‘Honours of Scotland’ – the Scottish crown jewels which date back to 1494 – in the closed-off ‘Crown Room’ of the castle.
The jewels had been hidden there since the Act of Union in 1707 and are the oldest sovereign regalia in the British Isles.
Abbotsford House has changed little over the years and the
19th-century atmosphere still
pervades the wonderful
study-cum-drawing room, the fine library, the dining room where Scott died on 21 September, 1832, and the beautiful gardens. Most impressive, though, is his writing desk – made from wood taken from the defeated ships of the Spanish Armada – and his collection of military artefacts including Rob Roy’s sword. The house is owned today by Scott’s great, great, great granddaughter Dame Maxwell–Scott.
5 NEWARK CASTLE
While the English poet Wordsworth was staying at Abbotsford House during his second tour of Scotland, Scott took him to see the remains of Newark castle. The ruins are mentioned in Wordsworth’s
Yarrow Re-visited.
VISITS TO THE LOCAL
Scott’s shepherd friend, James Hogg, knew an inn-keeper Tibbie Shiel, a young widow who, with six children to feed, had to rent out her front room. The two friends were regular visitors to Tibbie Shiel’s Inn and it soon became a meeting place for the leading lights of Scotland’s literary society. You can visit this inn
on the banks of St Mary’s Loch
– meals are served each day from 12.30pm to 8.30pm.
6 OLDEST LIVED-IN CASTLE
Traquair House, at Innerleithen, is Scotland’s oldest inhabited castle. In days gone by, Scott frequently visited the Lairds here, and Traquair House was the inspiration for the Tully-Veolan house in Scott’s book, Waverley. The house has been inhabited for over five centuries and today you can visit the house, its gardens, and its craft shops.
7 A GALA EVENT
Scott made frequent visits to Gala House, at Galashiels. The Laird
of Gala was also called Scott
and Walter claimed kinship with him. Furthermore, as young men togther, Walter and the Laird
gathered trophies from the field at the battle of Waterloo.
Gala House, which dates back to 1583, is set in pleasant gardens and today’s visitors can learn about
the history of the building and the town of Galashiels.
8 ROBERT THE BRUCE
Being so close to Abbotsford,
the majestic and ancient Melrose Abbey (founded circa 1136) was a regular visiting place for Scott.
He even persuaded the Duke of Buccleuch to pay for the removal
of rubbish which lay five-feet deep on the abbey floor. Here also, the heart of King Robert I (The Bruce) is buried, in a leaden casket.
9 SCOTT'S VIEW
Near Melrose was Scott’s favourite spot in the Borders region, with its commanding views of the Cheviots, the Gala Water hills and the three peaks of the Eildons. The colours and light are spectacular.
It is said that when Sir Walter’s horse was leading the funeral cortège to Dryburgh Abbey (see below),
it stopped here, unprompted, as it had been accustomed to so doing at its master’s request.
GORDON ARMS HOTEL
The Gordon Arms pub in Mountbenger, just outside Melrose, was a favourite of Scott’s. He and his great friend, the novelist James Hogg, met and parted there, unknowingly for the last time before Scott’s death in 1832.
10 DRYBURGH ABBEY
Dryburgh Abbey is a serene last resting place for Sir Walter. He was buried here in St Mary’s aisle on 26 September 1832, and lies here with his wife and other members of his family. It is fitting that he is buried here, as this abbey, which was sacked by the English in 1385, greatly influenced his poems and novels. On the Eve of St John, Scott wrote:
O fear not the priest, who sleepeth to the east!
For to Dryburgh the way he was tae’n;
And there to say mass till three days to pass,
For the soul of a knight that is slayne.
The varying light deceived thy sight,
And the wild winds drown’d the name;
For the Dryburgh bells ring, and the
white monks do sing,
For Sir Richard of Coldinghame!
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Stay at Thirlestaine Castle Caravan Park
Suitable for All those interested in Scottish literature
Tourist information
Scottish Borders Tourist Board Information Service
Tel 0870 608 0404
Website Click here for website
Refreshments
Abbotsford Tea Rooms, Abbotsford
Tel 01896 752043
For superb home-made soups,
and a bakery at the entrance to Scott’s Abbotsford home.
Attractions
Smailholm Tower
Tel 01573 460365
Sir Walter Scott’s Courtroom
Tel 01750 20096
Traquair House
Tel 01896 830323
Old Gala House
Tel 01750 20096
Abbotsford
Tel 01896 752043
Dryburgh Abbey
Tel 01835 822381
• Tip When visiting Abbotsford,
look carefully around the walls at some of Scott’s collected objects: there are some important historical items here, including the key to Loch Leven Castle, where Mary Queen
of Scots was imprisoned.
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