| Great Escapes: Scottish Borders Tour 2 |
Our planned walk takes in the natural beauty of the area, and local history ancient and modern
The Scottish Borders has its own sights and smells, thanks to the rich abundance of flowers, trees and shrubs. The best way to fully appreciate them is on foot,
so our route, which takes you from the heart of Kelso, along the banks of the River Teviot, to Roxburgh, will help unravel the Borders’ colourful history.
• We start at Kelso Abbey
1 KELSO ABBEY
One of the four great Borders abbeys, Kelso was founded in 1128 by King David I of Scotland. Some say the cobbled market square here has a French feel to it – perhaps this a legacy of the French monks, from Tiron, who inhabited the abbey.
• From the abbey, cross the River Tweed by the bridge that was built in 1803. When you reach the other side, you will find the grand
archway that once marked the entrance to the now-demolished Springwood Park House. The arch dates from 1822.
• Now turn right up the A699 road.
2 THE TEVIOT
Before long, you’ll see the union of the Rivers Tweed and Teviot. The latter is one of the main tributaries of the Tweed, and this is the river you should follow. This area, called Junction Pool, is one of the best and most expensive salmon beats of the entire Tweed.
• Continue to follow the Teviot. Soon, you’ll cross a grand stone bridge built in 1795 – but before you cross, you’ll see on your left the entrance to Springwood Caravan Park. The park is situated within the Springwood estate.
A mansion once stood on these grounds but was demolished in 1955.
3 ROXBURGH CASTLE & THE ROYAL BURGH OF ROXBURGH
• Having crossed the Teviot, pass a house and then turn left over a stone stile. Pass down some steps onto the river path, signposted Borders Abbeys Way.
You’ll now pass the remains of the town of Roxburgh and the ruins of its castle. Roxburgh was once one of the most important royal burghs in Scotland.
In the five centuries after the Romans withdrew from Britain in 5AD, there was almost constant tribal warfare in the area. The hill here, known as March Mount, was fortified to protect the burgh and, in 1018, after Alexander II had recovered the South of Scotland following the battle of Carnham, there grew a town and a castle.
Its fortitude made it a favourite haunt of Scottish kings in the 12th and 13th centuries, but after that it was witness to an almost continuous war which raged throughout the Borders region. During that time, Roxburgh Castle changed hands constantly, between the Scots and the English. In 1460, James II made an attempt to retake it for Scotland and was killed by a cannon which burst, but his wife, Mary of Gueldres recaptured the castle but destroyed most of it in the process.
The residents scattered and the town effectively ceased to exist until the 16th century. Today’s small town of Roxburgh is the result.
Of the old Royal Burgh only some low mounds are evident, in the fields beside the castle. Looking across the Tweed from the top of the castle, you will see Floors Castle high on the hill – this is home to the Duke of Roxburgh, and today plays host to various equestrian events.
4 RIVERSIDE WALK
• Keep walking along the
riverbank for two miles or so and take note of your surroundings. You will probably notice ‘rises’ in the river beside you, caused by trout and salmon seeking insect snacks, and if you are lucky, you may even see an otter.
Birdlife here is abundant and includes moorhens, mute swans, oystercatchers and herons. There are also yellow-hammers, wagtails chaffinches and other species.
It’s not unknown to see kingfishers
– or at least spot a flash of brilliant blue – along the riverside. And here all manner of plants thrive, too. Various species of reed grow in more sheltered areas of the river, and on land you can see spring flowers and bulbs including
bluebells, daffodils and crocuses.
5 THE RAILWAY VIADUCT
• The same path will take you across several stiles along the riverside, before you join a minor road about a mile and a half from Roxburgh Castle. Turn left through Roxburgh Mill Farm and continue towards the village.
From here, you will be able to
see the majestic arches of the
former railway viaduct as it strides across the river. A footbridge
suspended from the viaduct
allows pedestrians access to the east bank. This impressive piece
of Victorian civil engineering dates back to 1847.
Here, at Roxburgh, there was a junction from where trains would travel south from St Boswells to Jedburgh, although this line was closed in August, 1948.
At St Boswells, the old train
service joined the Edinburgh to Carlisle line. In the other direction it travelled east to Kelso – the route was closed to passengers on the 15 June, 1964 – and originally as far as Berwick, via Coldstream and Tweedmouth Junction.
With secondary routes such as these having been closed, it was not long before the Edinburgh to Carlisle main line – affectionately known as ‘the Waverley line’ because of its association with so many towns linked with Sir Walter Scott – also went into decline and closed, in 1969.
6 THE RETURN JOURNEY
• To stretch your legs even more,
you could carry on further up the Teviot river to Jedburgh, which makes the walk about 12 miles
in all. You can return to the
starting point of your walk at
Kelso by the same route.
• Or, you could also cross the Teviot by the footbridge and
return on the other river bank.
• Yet another way would be to
walk to Kalemouth along the
river (about three miles) from where you can catch a bus.
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Time 21/2 to 31/2 hours
Distance Six miles
Start/finish point Kelso Abbey
Terrain Mainly level, clear paths.
May be muddy after heavy rain
Suitable for anyone who is
reasonably fit
Tourist information
Scottish Borders Tourist Board Information Service
Tel 0870 608 0404
Tip As you make your way along the riverbank take time to talk to the local anglers – they know these waters
better than anyone and can tell you where to look to spot wildlife.
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