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Great Escapes: Scottish Borders Tour 3
East enders
Our spectacular driving route takes you east of Kelso, via a stately home, towards a craggy coast

So far, we have concentrated on the towns west of Kelso but there is also plenty to see towards the east. Within a short drive, you can be skirting the border with England and then weaving your way through some spectacular coastline cliffs and tiny fishing villages. Along the way, you will pass through charming towns and see some impressive stately homes. It’s a great route for scenery, and a great route to drive.

1 GUARDED APPROACH
The little town of Coldstream lies a few miles north-east of Kelso and is separated from England only by the width of the River Tweed, which runs along the bottom of the town.
It is from here that the Coldstream Guards originate, and a memorial stone with their crest and motto can be seen in Henderson Park.

2 RACING HERO
Duns is a pretty enough town, but its biggest pull is the Jim Clark Room of its museum, which commemorates the life of one of the world’s greatest motor racing drivers. This room is full of photos, paintings, and trophies depicting the life of the one-time farm boy who became a motor racing legend. Although born in Fife in 1936, Jim Clark lived near Duns for most of his life.
Jim began racing, in the 1950s, with a Mk III Sunbeam Talbot, after which his racing career blossomed. In 1958 he won the Spa Grand Prix and two years later joined Team Lotus, run by Colin Chapman. Lotus’ faith in him was rewarded with a second place in the F1 championship that year. Thereafter, he twice won the world motor racing championship. He also made his mark in 1965 as the first Briton to win the Indianapolis 500 race. Jim died in 1968, during a race at Hockenheim, after which his parents donated his racing trophies to Duns Town Council.

3 A SILVER STAIRCASE
Just outside Duns lies the impressive Manderston House, home of Lord and Lady Palmer. The house, and its basement which runs the length of the building, was used by Channel 4 TV as the basis for its Edwardian Country House series. It is claimed that it is also the only house in the world with a silver staircase.

4 ONE FOR THE KIDS
Paxton House, close to the border, is a popular venue as it is one of the few stately homes offers lots of activities for children, to stop them getting bored. There’s a large playground with an impressive-looking ‘death slide’, and a look-out tower.
There are nature trails here, and a special hide from where, if you’re lucky, you can view rare red squirrels. There are plenty of walks in the grounds, which stretch right down to the river, and you may be able to see deer, hares, heron, salmon and cormorants.
At the river, an exhibition mounted in Paxton’s reconstructed boat house, illustrates how salmon is traditionally fished.

5 LOST AT SEA
The road to Eyemouth is a lovely one: you’ll pass through some stunning scenery, coloured by the greens, yellows and violets of the borders. If it’s a fine day, you’ll occasionally see the sky brighten in the east – and this will be due to the reflection of the sea, which also adds a brilliant sheen to the land. Eyemouth is a lovely little fishing town with a sandy bay.
It has been a Burgh of Barony since 1597 and has always been a busy port, from the time of smugglers’ dealings in the 19th century, to the brisk fishing trade of today.
For visitors, one of the key attractions is the town’s museum, which depicts life in Eyemouth over the centuries. This includes milling, farming, wheelwrighting, netmaking and sailmaking.
The most poignant and interesting part of the exhibition is the tapestries which portray the loss of 189 fishermen during the Great Storm of 1881. One bright, sunny morning that year, the town’s 40 fishing vessels set sail. But by lunchtime, an immense hurricane had blown up, seemingly from nowhere, and 189 fishermen and half the fleet were lost. Some boats ran before the storm, only to end up as far away as Norway. Others attempted to reach the Scottish shore and did actually make port, but yet others came to grief at the harbour’s entrance, just a stone’s throw from dry land. Because of the appaling conditions, onlookers and relatives could do nothing as they watched their loved ones perish on the rocks.
The tapestry, which took two years to make, records the men who were lost. The name of the first boat recorded on the tapestry, the Forget-me-not, symbolises the depth of feeling which still exists in Eyemouth.

6 MARINERY SCENERY
Only a few miles further up the coast lies the little fishing hamlet of St Abbs. And it’s well worth a visit, not least for its extreme beauty. Also, about a mile outside the town, you can visit the nature reserve.
In St Abbs itself and along the coast, back to Eyemouth, you will find the Voluntary Marine Reserve, which strives to protect the area’s unique marine habitat.
The coastal waters here offer spectacular marine scenery because the sea is uncommonly clear and does not suffer from silt, as do the waters to the north and south. Not far from St Abbs, children can go rockpooling at Coldingham beach, one of the rocky shore areas in the Reserve.
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GREAT TRAILS 
 The Scots' man
 Walk the wild side
 East enders
 BACK TO ARCHIVE
PLANNING 
Suitable for all the family

Tourist information
Scottish Borders Tourist Board Information Service
Tel 0870 608 0404

Refreshments
The Tearooms, Paxton House Serves sandwiches, tasty meals, and home-baked produce, all at reasonable prices

Attractions
Coldstream Tourist Information office
Tel 0870 608 0404
Jim Clark Room (Duns)
Tel 01361 883960
Manderston House
Tel 01361 882450
Paxton House
Tel 01289 386291
Eyemouth Museum
and Tourist Information
Tel 01890 750678

 • Tip On many of the roads in the Borders region, especially on this route to the sea, you will be tempted to pull in and enjoy the view. If you do stop along the road, park sensibly, because many roads in the area are twisty and hilly, and your parked car may be hidden from the view of other motorists.
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