| The smugglers’ trail |
| Our two walks follow in the footsteps of ancient smugglers: Frenchman’s Creek, craggy clifftops and the ‘mouth of hell’ |
This woodland walk takes you along the banks of Frenchman’s Creek, the name of which author Daphne du Maurier took for the title and subject matter of her 1941 novel, in which a local beauty and a French pirate would meet and fall in love.
For hundreds of years, Cornwall’s remote coves and creeks have
provided cover not only for lovers but for smugglers, too. In the past, when the pilchard fishing haul was low, the Cornish people turned to smuggling, bringing in contraband which ranged from brandy and tobacco to simpler necessities such as wool and salt.
Despite the presence of the Gweek Customs House, then
situated at the head of the Helford River estuary, creeks such as Frenchman’s offered concealment for French and English smugglers to be able to regularly run
contraband into the country, and many got away with it.
ROUTE 1
FRENCHMAN'S CREEK, HELFORD
1. KESTLE COTTAGE
Begin this walk from Helford village pay-and-display car park. Walk out of the car park and turn right, down the lane to the ford and bridge. Don’t cross the bridge but continue up the lane past the cottages and climb the path as it winds up the hill behind a thatched cottage, then follow the path through the woods. At the fork, turn right across a small stream and through an opening. Cross the stile into a field. Keep to the edge of this field and, at Kestle, walk through the farmyard, then through a gate between barns and Kestle Cottage.
2. FRENCHMAN'S CREEK
Cross the road and continue down a track towards Frenchman’s Pill. At the end of the farmhouse wall, turn into the field through the gate and bear left, descending a steep, woody hill. Turn right at the fork, at the foot of this hill, which brings you to the head of Frenchman’s Creek. Bear right along the creekside. Turn right at the oak tree just beyond the plank bridge, and climb the wooden steps until the path levels out. Take a break and soak up the scenery.
3. PENARVON COVE
Continue along the field and cross a wooden stile. Turn right up a track, then right at the T-junction. Follow the edge of the field and turn left down a lane signposted (just after the cattle grid) Penarvon Cove. Stay on the main path, passing through a gate to reach the cove. Cross the top of the beach, then follow the track as it leads up through trees.
4. THE SHIPWRIGHT'S ARMS
Cross the road and go through a gate, following the path behind the cottages. Turn left at the end of the row, down a track, and bear right past the Shipwright’s Arms, or take a break here (enjoy a pint, something to eat, and views across the estuary). At low tide, wading birds come to feed on the mud flats, here.
• Return to the car park: follow the lane through the village,
cross the footbridge and turn
left to return to the Helford
car park.
ROUTE 2
- HELL'S MOUTH ON
THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH
The north coast is incredibly wild and has been witness to many shipwrecks in the past. Later, from atop the slate headland of Godrevy Point, you will get some idea of just how wild it can be from the view of the lighthouse and coastline there.
1. GODREVY POINT
Start this part of the walk at Godrevy Towans National Trust car park. There is a café and coffee shop here, too.
Turn left out of the car park. Walk up the road to the coast at
St Ives Bay. Follow the clifftop road for about 800 yards (pass Godrevy Farm). On the opposite side of the bay you will be able
to see the pretty town of St Ives. Bear left across the open turf to
a stile. Follow the path around
the hill to the very tip of Godrevy Point. Godrevy Island with
its lighthouse lies 400 yards or
so offshore.
2. THE HIGHEST POINT
Continue around the cliff top. Take the (unfenced) path along the cliffs to a kissing gate. Take the track that rises over the downland of The Knavocks to the highest point of this bleak headland. This is the highest point of our walk. The view across St Ives Bay to the hills of Penwith is spectacular. Looking north east, broken cliffs and sandy beaches stretch for 30 miles to Trevose Head. Continue through an area of gorse to two stiles. Cross a field to another stile and go left along a lane which turns into a narrow path. Follow the path as far as two granite gateposts.
3. DESCENT INTO HELL'S MOUTH
Turn left after the gateposts, and walk along the (unfenced) cliff tops – do take care – then follow the path as it heads inland. Continue over Hudder Down to descend to Hell’s Mouth.
4. Hell’s Mouth Café
Hell’s Mouth Café is across the road (B3301). If it is open, take the opportunity to have a break and a quick cuppa here before you return to the car park.
• Descend into Red River Valley
- you will see St Ives Bay straight ahead. At the stone bridge
turn right and walk back to the Godrevy Towans car park. |
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Distance Walk one: 21/2 miles. Walk two: 4 miles.
Both walks are suitable for the moderately fit
Time
Walk one 2 hours
Walk two 2-4 hours
REFRESHMENTS
Shipwright’s Arms, Helford (walk one)
Sand Sifters Hotel, Godrevy car park (walk two)
INFORMATION
Hayle Tel 01736 754399
Penzance
Tel 01736 362207
TIP
Sections of the path on our walk are along unfenced clifftop so keep children well away from the edge.
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