| Settle on who’s going to drive, then take the official Route de Cidre and, if you got the passenger seat, taste the region’s tipple |
As you travel the country roads of Calvados, there are many signposted routes touristiques which
catch your eye. These circuits have been specially devised for walkers, cyclists and motorists to enable them to easily discover for themselves the area’s historic sites, varied countryside, friendly people and, not least, its reputed products.
One such product is the eponymous apple brandy, mostly enjoyed as a digestif at the end of a meal. Another is cider, the more freely drunk beverage and the one we chose to pursue.
1. A CAPITAL TIME
We start our route in Lisieux, entering the town from the east on the N13, which brings you into Rue de Paris. Continue straight on into Rue Henry Cheron, passing the tourist office on the right, before entering the car park at the Place Mitterand. Leave the motorhome here to explore the town.
Lisieux is capital of the Pays d’Auge –– the Normandy of thatched roofs, timber-fronted cottages, fine cheeses, cider and, of course, Calvados.
EN ROUTE
Zero the trip meter. Exit the car park at Lisieux and turn right into Rue Henry Cheron. Continue straight on, following signs for the N13 to Caen. Proceed on the N13 for 7.5km to Boissière, turning right as you follow signs for Route de Cidre on the D59.
Within minutes of leaving the buzz of Lisieux, you enter the tranquil trail of cider makers. Farm after farm lines this route, which takes in at least two dozen recognised producers who welcome visitors. At many farms you’ll be able to taste the cider, Calvados and pommeau (an apéritif made with cider and Calvados) and to visit cellars, cider-making plants and old presses.
To be sure the product is of high quality, ask for Appellation Controlée, Pays d’Auge. You will know you are
tasting some of the best cider around if you spot any award-winning cups on display, the results of the cider makers’ annual competitions.
2. BONNIE BONNEBOSQ
From the beginning of the D59 road at Boissière to Bonnebosq, a distance of 10.4km, the road passes through some delightful vistas, tree-lined routes and pretty landscapes as it twists and dips along its way.
At 3.5km look out for the ancient Abbaye du Val Richer on your left. Only its exterior can be visited, as is the case for the Château de la Roque-Baignard 2km later, which announces your arrival in Bonnebosq after a
crossroads with the D117.
Bonnebosq is a sizeable but pretty town and a good place to stretch your legs. Leave the motorhome in the parking space on Rue de Lisieux and enjoy the pretty picture conjured by the old timbered houses (left) and the manor of Champ-Versan, which is open to visitors Wednesday to Sunday from April to September.
3. FIRST TASTE OF THE DAY
Zero your trip meter. Leave Bonnebosq and take the D16 south west in the direction of Rumesnil for 3km. Now turn right onto a local road for Repentigny, which you will reach after 0.6km. Here you will find the farm of M. Cenier.
Should you call at the farm of M. Cenier, you will get a friendly reception from Madame. The Cenier family are primarily dairy farmers but are knowledgeable about cider, too, which they also produce. Proudly displayed are the silver cups they have won: first prize for cidre brut in the Cambremer area in 2001, and second prize for Calvados in 2000.
4. ONE FOR THE ROAD
Back on the local road, continue for 1.3km to the junction with the D276, then turn left and follow the hairpin bend through Druval, continuing for a further 2.4km to the village of Beaufour which sits at the northern-most point on the cider route. From here take the D146 south-west for 2.7km to St Aubin Lebizay.
At St Aubin Lebizay you will find another award-winning farm situated just off the D146 as you arrive in the town. This belongs to the Desvoye family, whose reputation for cider and Calvados production goes back to the 1800s. Walls decorated with trophies testify to their expertise and to the high quality of their produce.
5. AN INSPIRING VIEW
Stay on the D146 for 1.5km until you reach a T-junction. Here, turn right and continue for 0.5km, passing through Clermont-en-Auge, bearing immediately right at the sign for Eglise St Michel de Clermont.
Leave the motorhome in the small parking area at the Church of St Michel de Clermont and walk some 100 yards further on. From here you can appreciate the fine panorama of the hilly Auge country as it meets the flat, reclaimed marshland beyond.
6. BEUVRON THE BELLE
Return to the motorhome and drive back to the D146. Here turn right and continue for 2.7km to Beuvron-en-Auge. Park in the centre of the village.
Immediately you arrive in Beuvron-en-Auge, it strikes you as a truly beautiful village, full of traditional, timbered houses, some with huge beams supporting their façades.
For a spot of refreshment stop at the excellent Pavé d’Auge.
7. CIDER CENTRE
Departing Beuvron-en-Auge and continuing south east for 3.2km takes you through the hamlet of Victot on the D49. Continue, and 0.5km after the junction with the D16 the route swings northwards for 4km, following the Dorette river to St.Gilles-de-Livet before turning southwards on the D85 for 4km, finally arriving in Cambremer.
Although it is a neat and unpretentious village, Cambremer is nevertheless a big name when it comes to Normandy cider, and you know you’ve found the very best vintage when you see the sign ‘Cru de Cambremer’ which means ‘Cambremer pressing’.
The remainder of the Route de Cidre will bring you back onto the N13. Continue for 17.5km and you will arrive back where you began the tour, at the car park in the Place Mitterrand, Lisieux. If it’s Wednesday, head for the evening market.
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Distance 67km
Start/finish place
Mitterand, Lisieux
Suitable for Adults, particularly cider buffs
REFRESHMENT
Le Pavé d’Auge,
Beuvron-en-Auge
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 79 26 71
ATTRACTIONS
Farm of M. Cenier, Repentigny
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 64 38 69
Farm of M. Desvoye,
St Aubin-Lebizay
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 65 11 94
L’Eglise St Michel de Clermont, Clermont-en-Auge
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 63 02 45
INFORMATION
Office de Tourism, Lisieux
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 48 18 10
Tip
The Route de Cidre is well marked, so you shouldn’t need a map.
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