| Discover the attraction of the coastal towns and beaches that have for centuries been a hit with artists and holiday-makers alike |
Most of us who have seen pictures of Honfleur and neighbouring Trouville and Deauville, towns immortalised by the great painters of the 19th century, will have vowed to visit one day these grandiose spots on Normandy’s northern coastline. But normally we simply hurry past on our way south.
None the less La Côte Fleurie (The Floral Coast), along which these towns lie, is far from neglected. Its sandy beaches and undulating cliffs stretch from the mouth of the river Dives to the beginning of the Seine estuary, with each of the resorts along the way offering a unique experience.
1. INSPIRATIONAL HONFLEUR
Make your way to Honfleur. Entering the town on the D579, drive over the second roundabout into Rue de la République, then turn right into Rue Monpensier, continuing through Rue des Vases and Quai Tostain until you reach the car park at Quai de la Cale.
Honfleur is so picturesque that it would be difficult to find a reason to dislike it – except, perhaps, for the crowds. Many come to see the Pont de Normandie suspension bridge. Since its opening in 1995 it has given the town a direct link across the Seine estuary to Le Havre and Upper Normandy. Prior to this, Honfleur enjoyed the privacy of a less accessible corner of the coastline.
Much praised, painted and photographed is Honfleur’s 17th-century harbour area, the Vieux Bassin. Here, alongside the striking houses, the seafaring atmosphere still prevails and the original setting of the ‘Old Dock’ attracts many yachts, with no shortage of British flags atop the many masts.
The surrounding district is worth investigating for its narrow streets and, not least, L’Eglise St Catherine, the largest wooden church in France, built almost entirely from oak. The square around the church is the scene of a colourful market but it is easy to see what really made Honfleur a source of inspiration to the Impressionists, many of whose paintings can be appreciated at the Musée Eugene Boudin. The Vieux Bassin is one of France’s most
delightful harbours and today artists continue to line the nearby quay as they attempt to capture its essence.
2. ROADSIDE PARADISE
For another of Honfleur’s attractions, return to the motorhome, zero the trip meter and turn right onto the Quai de la Quarantaine. Turn right again after crossing the bridge and continue on the D513 for 1.8km until you reach Naturospace, which is clearly signed.
Naturospace is a man-made rain forest where you can escape the rush of the outside world and commune with nature in a unique habitat.
Here, in 800 square metres of tropical paradise, many wonderful species of butterflies flit freely among the extraordinary trees and brilliantly coloured flowers which flourish in a constant temperature of 28º C.
3. A GLIMPSE OF GLAMOUR
Zero your trip meter. Rejoin the D513 and continue for 13.2km until you reach the parking space on the Boulevard Fernand Moureaux near the Casino in Trouville.
The 17th-century town of Trouville-sur-Mer, whose beaches are lovingly portrayed in the 19th-century paintings of Boudin, is said to be the oldest seaside resort in France. It is separated from neighbouring Deauville by the River Touques, though the towns are connected by a bridge. Both places are well known for their high prices, though it is Deauville which has earned the reputation of the ritziest resort in northern France.
Deauville began to flourish when well-known aristocrats started to build exclusive villas on the stretch of beach spanning the Touques, and today the town continues to attract nobility and the rich. It is easy to feel glamourous here amid the grand hotels and lush interiors. Even if you don’t want to splash out, you can still get a sense of decadence by walking along the 800-metre wooden promenade to admire the magnificent golden beach or simply by sitting at a café and watching the world stroll by. 4. BACK DOWN TO EARTH
Zero your trip meter. Leave Trouville and travel west on the D513 for 8km to Villers-sur-Mer. Parking should be easy enough to find.
A considerably less pretentious and less crowded resort than Trouville and Deauville , Villers-sur-Mer is known for its huge, sandy beach, its fossil-rich cliffs and its rolling, green countryside which takes in some 35km of pathways. The seafront is just the place to keep cool if temperatures soar, and the town also hosts summer music festivals. Guided tours of the town and countryside are available.
5. OLD FAVOURITES
Zero your trip meter. From Villers-sur-Mer continue on the D513 for 7km until you reach Houlgate and, after a further 4km, Cabourg.
Cabourg, which lies on the Dives estuary, was billed in the 19th century as having ‘the most beautiful beach within five hours of Paris’. It retains its looks to this day. At the heart of the town stand the Grand Hôtel and Casino. From this central point fans a maze of avenues of gabled villas and lovely, tree-shaded gardens.
On the other side of the estuary, Houlgate may have less to brag about but in many ways has more appeal. It offers a good beach overlooked by a row of fine mansion houses and its town centre is quietly attractive.
Both Houlgate and Cabourg enjoy a reputation for being relaxing and friendly. They prove consistently popular with ordinary holiday-makers, and during the annual film festival you might spot a few stars, too. |
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Distance 10.5km
Time 71/2 hours
Start Quai de la Cale, Honfleur
Finish Promenade, Cabourg
Suitable for All the family
REFRESHMENT
Crêperie du Port, Trouville
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 88 16 60
ATTRACTIONS
Musée Eugene Boudin
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 89 54 00
Naturospace
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 81 77 00
INFORMATION
Calvados Tourist Board
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 27 90 30
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