| Swiss Normandy offers scenery you’d expect from other lands
in the heart of northern France |
The area known as Swiss Normandy, which lies mostly in southern Calvados, is a strange contrast to the otherwise gentle hills of the Normandy landscape. As its name suggests, it is an area of deep gorges, high, rocky cliffs and wooded valleys. Running through it is the Orne river, popular with canoeists, water-skiers and rock climbers as well as walkers.
This is Normandy’s great outdoors and it is surprisingly less crowded than other parts of the region, making it an attractive option for a hassle-free drive. In addition to its wonderful scenery, it has many interesting towns and villages to explore.
1. BEFORE 1066 AND ALL THAT
Make your way to Falaise, which lies 34km south east of Caen and is the largest town near Swiss Normandy. On entering Falaise from the north or south on the N158 turn westwards at the second roundabout, following signs for the town centre and the Château Guillaume-Le-Conquérant. There’s a car park opposite the church.
Falaise’s role in the history of Normandy and England is significant and centres around its castle, the Château Guillaume-Le-Conquérant. This enormous fortress is built on a rocky promontory above the River Ante and dominates the town.
It was in this castle that William the Conqueror was born in 1027, the son of Robert the Magnificent. William is the subject of an impressive statue in the Place Guillaume-le-Conquérant, in which he is depicted astride a rearing horse and brandishing a banner. Decorating the pedestal are smaller statues, erected in 1875, of
the first six dukes of Normandy. An hour-long tour of the castle tells the story of William, crowned King of England in 1066, and the lives of his family and descendants.
2. GARDEN PLEASURES
Zero your trip meter and head north on the N158 for 2.5km, turning left onto the D6 in the direction of Thury-Harcourt and continuing for 27.2 km. Don’t be put off by the next stretch, a rather unimpressive 43km; it leads to a scenic 8km drive towards the heart of Swiss Normandy, arriving finally at the town of Thury-Harcourt itself.
The busy shopping town of Thury-Harcourt sits at the northern edge of Swiss Normandy and is a pleasant tourist centre. Its attractions include the park and gardens of its château. The Château Thury-Harcourt and its original park and gardens burned down in 1944, but the grounds have since been restored. There are three gardens in total, each offering a different character and tone. You should allow at least an hour to fully appreciate the display.
Thury-Harcourt also boasts the first aquatic complex in Calvados. Le Centre Aquatique de la Suisse Normande is situated in the middle of woodland in the Traspy valley, just minutes from the main shopping area. Its water chutes, jacuzzi, waterfalls and entertainment/games area make it a popular inland venue.
3. WALKING POINT
Zero your trip meter and from Thury-Harcourt take the D562 southwards for 10.7km to Clécy.
At the centre of Swiss Normandy, Clécy is more of a large village than a town but it has plenty of amusements to lure the tourist, including a miniature railway, an apple fair and several museums.
It is also the favourite starting place for walkers exploring the area. Within sight of Clécy is Sugar Loaf rock, which commands a fine view for climbers who reach the summit. For the less energetic, a short detour in the car, following the route of the Orne River and offering superb scenery, should not be missed.
4. RIVERSIDE REFRESHMENT
From Clécy bear left onto the D133a and continue 1.9km eastwards to Le Vey, where you should be able to find somewhere to park.
Be sure to stop at Le Vey to soak up the amazing scenery. Here the fast waters, gorges, rock faces and lush greenery transport you from Normandy to such places as Ardeche or Jura.
Cross the bridge to the east bank of the river and you will discover the Hostellerie du Moulin du Vey, a country hotel bedecked with ivy and flowers and situated in an idyllic location at the water’s edge. It’s the perfect place to stop for lunch, though one of the humble cafés lining the riverside road will suffice as an alternative.
Return to the west bank, continue walking alongside the river for 1km and you will encounter a huge viaduct where the river crashes furiously over the rocks. Here canoeists take their chances while dare-devil climbers scale the face of the colossal structure.
5. A BREATHTAKING VIEW
Return to the motorhome and drive back to Clécy on the 133a for 2.9km. In Clécy turn left onto the D562 towards Condé-sur-Noireau for 3.5km, then left again onto the D1 for 8km to Pont D’Ouilly. Here, bear right off the D1
at 0.6km east of the town and onto the D167. Continue for 3.5km to Le-Mensil-Villement and turn right onto the D329 signed Breel. Continue for 3km to the junction with the D301 where you will come across the Roche d’Oetre, with parking nearby.
This is Swiss Normandy’s most famous viewpoint. And no wonder: the rock overlooks the deep valley of La Rouvre and the craggy hills that give the area its name. Stunning.
6. AROUND RABODANGES
From the Roche d’Oetre continue south east on the D301 for 5.6km to the pretty hamlet of Menil-Hermei. Here turn right onto the D239 for 4.5km to Rabodanges, another such hamlet. Continuing for 2.4km south west on a local road from the village leads to a car park by a bridge over the River Orne.
Stop here and take stock of the scenic surroundings. Upstream lies the Gorges de St.Aubert, while the wide expanse of the river around Rabodanges is a haven for many types of watersport.
Return to Rabodanges and turn right onto the D329 for 3km to the junction with the D909. Now turn left onto the D909 13km back to Falaise. |
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Distance 96km
Time 6 hours
Start/finish place Guillaume-le-Conquérant, Falaise
Suitable for All the family
REFRESHMENT
Hostellerie du Moulin du Vey
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 69 71 08
ATTRACTIONS
Château Guillaume-Le-Conquérant
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 41 61 44
Parc et Jardins du Château Harcourt-Thury
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 79 72 05
INFORMATION
Falaise
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 90 17 26
Thury-Harcourt
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 79 70 45
Clécy
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 69 79 95
Tip
Tourist offices may be closed on Mondays
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