| Great trails: Spain, Costa Brava |
| Craggy Coastlines |
| Fine artists loved this stretch of the Costa Brava, in the Catalonia region – and no wonder, its beauty will dazzle you, too ... |
We set forth from our campsite, Beach Camp El Pinar at Blanes, having
plotted a driving route which would unveil this costa’s rumoured beauty.
1. Blanes
Firstly, we cast our eyes and camera towards the magnificent Passeig Maritim, which offers a superb panorama of Blanes and its
sun-kissed beach. Then, if you look carefully, remnants of Catalonia’s past emerge in the form of
charming churches such as the 14th-century Gothic Iglesia de Santa Maria, or the hilltop setting where the remains of the Castillo de Sant Joan are housed.
Before moving on from here, do try to visit the Jardin Botanic de Marimurtra. This botanical garden presents rare, exotic plant varieties in addition to thousands of plant species from countries around the world. It is just the place where you might like to linger as the paths lead through the park where eventually wonderful coastal views unfold.
2. Lloret and Tossa de Mar
After Blanes, we negotiated the GI 682, a spectacular cliff-top road between Lloret and Tossa de Mar
– a daring, cursory glance down suggested wide, sandy beaches.
Lloret is a bigger resort than Blanes and warrants a walk along its seafront, while Tossa has a lot of appeal and looks very inviting as you approach the town, for it
nestles in a natural setting.
The lighthouse and 13th-century walls of Tossa’s Vila Vella stand on a promontory, the Punta del Faro, around which curves a pristine beach. The medieval quarter and the Municipal Museum with its
historic artefacts and exhibitions of contemporary art, deserve a fair amount of your time. The works of artists who visited here in the 1930s are on display, one being Marc Chagall who dubbed Tossa de Mar, ‘blue paradise’.
3. Sant Feliu and S'Agaro
When you are ready to leave, a glance at the map shows that it is another 23km to Sant Feliu de Guixols. Towards the end of this part of your journey, and having rounded a spate of hairpin bends, it is definitely time for a break.
If you have a picnic with you there are parking places along the way, which offer the chance to appreciate the Costa Brava’s cove-laden rocky coastline. Otherwise, head for Sant Feliu’s famous boulevard Passeig de la Mar, where there are plenty
of cafes.
Sant Feliu, with its two fine beaches, is one of the Cost Brava’s most popular locations. Its monastery and church of Sant Elm, make a worthwhile visit and a lookout point here commands
striking views of the coast road.
Nearby S’Agaro is praised for its elegance and luxury villas. Time spent here might include a walk along the sea wall or a stroll,
barefoot, along the crescent-shaped beach. What also impresses is the fact that this village can boast one of the most luxurious hotels on the Costa Brava.
4. Calella de Palafrugell
Although tempted to linger by the grandeur of S’Agaro we
nevertheless made haste and took the C257/C255 roads for 18km to Palafrugell, by-passing Platja D’Aro and Palmos on the way.
Here we debated whether to veer left to Llafranc, or take a right turn towards Calella de Palafrugell.
The latter is highly recommended and, judging by the map, we
couldn’t go wrong making this choice because the map boasted a plentiful scattering of symbols, indicating attractive scenery.
We learnt that the attractive
fishing port of Calella de Palafrugell is known for its Festival de Habaneras which takes place on the first Saturday in July. It is a celebration of song and dance, inspired by the Spanish-American war.
5. Cap Roig
Just south of Calella de Palafrugell lies the scenic point known as Cap Roig and, depending on your appetite for visiting botanic
gardens, here you will find yet another: the Jardin Botanic del Cap Roig, carved out of the rocks and overlooking the Mediterranean.
6. Medieval Pals
Enough of sea views we thought and at Begur, 10 to 15 minutes
further on and at an altitude of 329m above sea level, we choose to turn inland. We had previously agreed that a definite visit on this tour would have to be Pals which is situated just a few kilometres from the coast.
A tourist leaflet we picked up had promised a collection of small, medieval settlements and we were not disappointed.
Pals, a medieval walled town is a national treasure. On route you pass rose-coloured stone dwellings – and beyond the ramparts is a step back in time.
On a leisurely walk through
cobbled streets you discover the small church of San Pedro, old Catalan houses bedecked with flowers, and craft shops to browse.
Like Pals, the nearby village of Peratallada is another medieval delight and so , too is the village of Ullastret, which dates from the 5th century BC.
By now, we reckoned that we had travelled far enough for one day. We had taken in a fair assortment of dramatic scenery and an equal assortment of architecture which ranged from ancient times to the massive, concrete structures that were built to cope with today’s
volume of holidaymakers.
Return to Blanes
Because we didn’t care to retrace our coastal route back to Blanes, we instead headed home by way of the hinterland. This meant taking the GI652/C255 roads to Palamos, then the C257/C250/C253 to Vidreres. From there we joined the N11 south for 12kms, followed by the B600 for the 6km drive to Blanes.
All in all, we thought it had been a great day out, having clocked up 147km (92 miles). Perhaps we might have appreciated being able to spend more time at certain places along the way but one thing we did feel good about: we had enjoyed this stretch of the Catalonian coastline. And, we’d been pleasantly surprised: it was less crowded and less touristy than we had at first imagined.
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Telephone code
0034 (9) from Britain
Where we stayed
Beach Camp El Pinar, C/Villa de Madrid, E-17300, Blanes (Girona). Tel (9)72 33 10 83. The site is 60km north of Barcelona.
ANOTHER
RECOMMENDED SITE
Camping Botanic Bona Vista (Kim), 08370, Calella. Tel 31 7692 488
Attractions
Blanes Marimutra Botanic Gardens, Passeig Carles Faust. Tel 72 33 08 26.
Palafrugell Josep Pla Library Foundation, Nou 51.
Tel 72 30 55 77
Lloret de Mar Church of Sant Roma • 14th-century Hermitage of Santa Cristina
• Water World at Carretera de Vidreres. Tel 72 36 86 13
Sant Feliu de Guixols Nestled in a bay. Two fine beaches. Sunday market.
S’Agaro The Camino de Ronda offers superb views
Cap Roig Botanical Garden Calella de Palafrugell.
Tel 72 61 45 82.
Tourist Offices
Blanes Placa de Catalunya.
Tel 72 33 03 48.
Lloret de Mar Placa de la Vila 1. Tel 72 36 47 35.
Sant Feliu de Guixols Placa Monestir, 54. Tel 72 82 0051.
Recommended map
Michelin (Orange) no.443
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